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Food & Drink

Revolver Taco Lounge is More Than Good, It is The Ideal

 

Over the weekend, while enjoying the North Texas country and after much wine and, previously, butterfly hunting, I was talking with a few friends about Platonic ideals and Forms. We are very fun, obviously. But as we hashed through the ideal concepts of a butterfly — large, though not too large, with blue wings and most likely a swallowtail — it made me think of what came to mind for different foods. (The Italian Stallion is the correct answer for “sandwich.”)

If there is a Platonic ideal for “taco” in Dallas, then it is at Revolver Taco Lounge in Deep Ellum. Since moving over from Fort Worth a couple of years ago, owner Regino Rojas and Revolver have been consistently creating Michoacán food that will make you swear off Tex-Mex for months in favor of the deep, bold flavors being delivered on hand-made, ludicrously fresh tortillas made mere minutes before you hold them by master tortilleras Tia Tere & Adelita.


These chewy tortillas are pillowy soft yet full of flavor. They never tear, and are worth the price of admission alone. (You could do well enough with just a stack of them, some butter and salsa.)

But you won’t do that, because then you would miss the fillings. There are your standby fillings like Al Pastor with fire roasted marinated pork shoulder, grilled pineapple, onion, cilantro and salsa. After all, don’t mess with perfection. The pulpo gets more adventurous with fried leeks on top of the tender octopus, providing for a satisfyingly salty bite.

The star of Revolver Taco Lounge, however, is the Monterey Cabrito taco. Made with 30-day-old goat in an oven-roasted Michoacán-style birria with onion, cilantro and salsa, the taco is tender and full of chilies and the light beef flavor that goat yields. Yes, it is $8. Yes, you must get it.

The goat stew was once featured on Andrew Zimmern’s “Bizzare Foods” which brings into the idea of how we play with expectations in our dishes and flavors across cultures. Certainly, residents of Morelia, Michoacán would find the menu at Torchy’s to be full of the bizarre.

So now, when I think “taco” in my mind, I see the pictures of this story and know that the triumvirate of pork, pulpo and goat is good. It is very, very good.